Placing Your Models in the Ring

More helpful tips from guest blogger Tiffany Birkinbine:

If a show hall has varied lighting then evaluate a table’s lighting before the show begins. If you have a horse with a ghost scratch or small flaw, place your model in a darker area. This will help keep the judge from seeing it as well compared to an overhead light emphasizing the flaw. However, if you have a model that has beautiful detail and the table has an area that is highlighted more by lighting then place your model in that area so that your model’s detail can be highlighted better.

I always try to find a spot on a table that isn’t real close to a Trad so that the bigger model doesn’t overwhelm them. Sometimes that is not possible in a big class but if there are other stablemates in the class I try to set my models next to them. It’s all about making sure the judge can get a good view of my model and not get lost in the crowd.

Laura in: As a judge, I love to see a class organized like this. If the class is big and the minis are already grouped, it encourages me to split the class into big guys and minis.

To help stablemates stand out and not get lost among the Trads in a class; place them on a base. You can buy beveled wooden bases at a hobby store for about a dollar. For some added touches, paint or stain your base, glue on model train grass or dirt, add flowers, tall grass or rocks. All of this can be bought at hobby stores or model train shops. Just make sure it’s not so heavily decorated that it detracts from the model and also check your show’s rules as some shows do not allow bases.

Laura in: You may also want to check with the judge. Some judges like them, some judges hate them, and some are indifferent.

Making Things Easier: Pony Baskets

Little early for Monday. I'm moving tomorrow and I'm about to disconnect and pack up my modem.

Today’s tip comes from hobbyist Tiffany Birkinbine:

“An easy and safe way to carry your stablemates to the table is a basket. You can buy a small basket at a hobby shop. Put a soft cloth in the basket to keep your models from being scratched. This method helps to keep you from dropping your models along with helping you pull double duty by bringing models up for the next class and taking models back to your table at the same time after the previous class has been pinned.”

Believe me that this technique is certainly preferable to the mini-between-every-finger technique.

Common Terms and Abbreviations

At live shows and on this blog, you will encounter dozens hobby and show specific terms. The following list isn't exhaustive, but it covers the basics:

Halter: This is one of the two primary divisions. All Halter classes have the same thing in common: you stand your horse on the table and walk away. Traditionally, documentation and halters are allowed (a legacy of real world halter classes) but not required. All other tack and props are not allowed. In a halter class, it's just the horse that is judged.

Performance: This is the other primary division, and usually the hardest to describe to the uninitiated. Showers combine models, tack, dolls, props, and even dioramas to capture a moment in time. A strong emphasis is placed on accuracy and respecting to rules of the real world disciplines that are represented.

Collectibility: A type of halter class, models are compared and judged based on their age, condition, rarity, and desirability.

Breed: Another type of halter class, models are judges on realism and conformation.

Workmanship: A type of halter class held just for custom-finished models. The original body is generally ignored and the model is judged primarily on finish work.

Mini: Generally, "Pebble" scale (1/20-ish) and smaller. Also included Breyer's Little Bit/Paddock Pals, Stablemates, Mini Whinnies, and Stone's Chips scale.

Original Finish: A model that has not been altered from it's original, factory painted finish.

Artist Resin: Resin-cast sculptures that are finished by individual painters. Usually, they are extremely realistic.

Customs: Any original finish model that has been altered or enhanced. Resculpting and repainting are common.

Custom Glazed: Similar to an artist resin in that they are often released unpainted and later finished by an artist, except on a clay-based body.

The hobby uses abbreviations everywhere, but especially at shows. I can't remember the last time I even said "Original Finish" out loud instead of "OF" (oh-eff.) These are the abbreviations you will see in most show packets:

Appy: Appaloosa
AR: Artist Resin
ASB: American Saddlebred
CM: Custom
ISH: Ideal Stock Horse (Peter Stone's standing stock horse mold.)
MFT: Missouri Fox Trotter
NAMHSA: North American Model Horse Shows Association
NAN: North American Nationals
NSH: National Show Horse
OF: Original Finish
OOAK: One of a kind
PRE: Pura Raza Espanola aka Andalusian
QH: Quarter Horse
RMH: Rocky Mountain Horse
RR: Regular Run
SR: Special Run
STB: Standardbred
TB: Thoroughbred
TWH: Tennessee Walking Horse
WB: Warmblood

Feel free to add more common terms and abbreviations in the comments.